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History Of Vogue Patterns:
In 1899 VOGUE Magazine
published a weekly pattern feature, which showed the consumer a
pattern that could be purchased by sending in 50 cents with the
coupon. Only one size was available.............a 36 inch
bust. By 1905 the once-weekly pattern service had evolved into
an entire Pattern Department, thanks to Rosa Payne who convinced the
editors to print one of her patterns.
In 1909 Vogue was purchased by
Conde Nast and the demand for "Vogue" designs became so large that
Mr Nast increased the availability and widened the style range.
The Vogue Pattern Company was formed in 1914 and department stores
started selling the patterns in 1916.
In the early 30's,
Ladies Home Journal discontinued their HOME patterns and featured
Vogue Patterns in their Fashion Section instead of the traditional
Home Patterns.
There were several
different numbering sequences. Their Regular line, Childrens,
Special Design and their Couturier line.
Vogue Patterns made news in
the fashion industry by announcing the availability of Paris
Original Models in 1949, featuring leading French Couturiers.
Conde Nast signed a licensing
agreement in 1961, with Butterick to use and trademark the Vogue
Pattern name.
The pattern number is
only an indicator of the date on vintage sewing patterns. You
can’t use the number alone because the companies would start over
again when they got to a certain level. You must consider the
general silhouette of the clothing along with other factors such as
hair, price, sizing and envelope style and logo placement you can
get pretty close to the issue or copyright date. Please be
aware that even if a pattern is dated, it could have been in
production for years and could even be a re-release of a previous
number.
Style eras
often crossed decade lines. For instance it is very difficult
to tell a 1938 pattern from a 1941 pattern. The basic style
and design elements were the same. The same thing applies for
1959-1961 and again in the 60s and 70's. There is more
difference between 1964 and 1967 that there is between 1969 and
1971.
Besides the general
look and art work of vintage patterns, the sizing can be a very good
indicator. In the beginning of Home Patterns, the bust
measurement is often the only measurement given. By the 1940s
patterns gave bust and hip measurements but often the waist was not
given (due to the fact that the sewist could change that element).
Until 1956 a Size 12
was for a 30 inch bust. In 1956 sizing changed and a Size 12
was for a 32 inch bust. In mid 1967 the standard changed once
again and a Size 12 became a 34 inch bust and remains so today.
So if you are trying to date something near the year of size change,
the size can be a great clue.
All Numbers
listed have been found either on a dated pattern, or in a magazine
or other publication of the period.
These pages
are constantly changing as new information and new publications are
found. So check back often to see the current changes.
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